Vacheron Constantin, A Sleeper Hit in the Year of Hype

In a year dominated by splashy releases and Rolex mania, one watch flew slightly under the radar, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Shortly after Watches & Wonders 2025, Vacheron quietly dropped a new Overseas model that didn’t get the mainstream fanfare it deserved. In this post we’ll spotlight two standout references, the steel Overseas Chronograph Ref. 5520V/210A-B481 and the ultra-thin Overseas Perpetual Calendar with the new burgundy dial, to make the case for why the Overseas is 2025’s most underrated watch. From exceptional craftsmanship and complications to versatility and prestige, the Overseas brings world class watchmaking that rivals and often surpasses its more hyped competitors. It’s time to think beyond the crown and discover why the Vacheron Constantin Overseas 2025 collection is a true sleeper hit in the luxury sports watch world.

Overseas Chronograph Ref. 5520V/210A-B481

One of the best examples of what makes the Overseas special is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Ref. 5520V/210A-B481. This is a 42.5 mm stainless steel sports chronograph that oozes quality and refinement in equal measure. Elegant yet undeniably sporty, the watch pairs a rich black dial with silvered sub-dials, a reverse panda layout that is both highly legible and distinctively handsome. Vacheron’s attention to detail is evident everywhere, the dial’s velvet finished minute track, the polished and lumed gold hour markers and the crisp snailing on the chronograph registers all reflect a level of finishing a notch above your typical tool watch. Under the hood Vacheron equips this model with its in house Calibre 5200, a column wheel chronograph movement stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal. That Geneva Hallmark isn’t just marketing, it’s a strict certification of origin, craftsmanship and reliability that’s synonymous with haute horlogerie excellence. In practical terms, it means the movement is decorated and finished to an impeccable standard, far beyond what you’d see in mass produced luxury watches. Through the transparent sapphire caseback, you’re treated to a view of the 22K gold oscillating weight, intricately engraved with a wind rose compass motif, a nod to the Overseas’ travel inspired spirit.

Functionally the Overseas Chronograph covers all the bases of a modern luxury sports watch. It’s robust and water resistant to 150 m, on par with a Rolex Submariner, yet it boasts complications and finishing that the Submariner can only dream of. The column wheel chronograph mechanism ensures smooth actuation of the pushers and there’s a date neatly tucked between 4 and 5 o’clock for everyday practicality. Vacheron’s ingenious interchangeable strap system further elevates the versatility. Straight out of the box, the 5520V comes with three strap options, a full steel bracelet, a leather strap and a rubber strap, all of which can be swapped in seconds without any tools. It’s like getting three watches in one, dress it up on steel, go casual on textured calfskin or hit the pool on the comfortable rubber strap. The integrated bracelet itself is a work of art, composed of half Maltese cross links that fluidly catch the light and wrap the wrist with sublime comfort. This level of design cohesiveness, from the iconic six notch bezel evoking Vacheron’s Maltese cross emblem, to the flowing form of the case and bracelet, gives the Overseas a distinct character that stands out in a sea of look alike sports watches.

Why highlight this particular reference? Because in 2025, the Overseas Chronograph exemplified “underrated.” While everyone was clamoring for the latest Rolex Daytona, the Vacheron chrono offered a compelling alternative that many enthusiasts overlooked. It has the pedigree, Vacheron is after all part of the holy trinity of Swiss watchmaking, the performance, a tough 150 m waterproof sports chrono and the polish, literally and figuratively, with Geneva Seal finishing, yet it hasn’t been hyped to oblivion. As a result you can actually buy and enjoy one without navigating years long waitlists or paying double retail on the secondary market. In our experience handling this piece, the Overseas Chronograph has an undeniable wow factor on the wrist. The way the light plays off the polished facets of the bezel and bracelet, the satisfying click of the chronograph pushers and the view of that gilded rotor are pure joy for a watch lover. It’s a timepiece that quietly asserts its excellence, rather than shouting for attention, and that under the radar confidence is exactly why it deserves more of the spotlight.

The Ultra-Thin Overseas in Burgundy: Post W&W’s Hidden Gem

If the Chronograph is the everyday workhorse of the Overseas line, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin with Burgundy Dial is its show stopping dressier cousin and arguably one of the coolest horological releases of 2025. Unveiled in late August 2025, this model flew slightly under the radar. Many enthusiasts were still buzzing about other brands’ releases from the spring, so this stunning Overseas didn’t initially get the widespread fanfare it merited. But make no mistake, Vacheron Constantin pulled out all the stops for this anniversary edition. Offered in a 41.5 mm 18K white gold case paired with a mesmerising burgundy lacquered dial, it’s a watch that effortlessly melds high complication with high style. Vacheron also released a sister model in 18K pink gold with a tone-on-tone golden dial, but the burgundy has arguably stolen the show. The burgundy dial is downright captivating in person, “one of the most photogenic dials out there,” as one hands-on review put it. It has a translucent sunburst finish that can appear almost oxblood in dimmer light and a vibrant wine red in brighter conditions, shifting hue like a chameleon as you move your wrist. Against the cool white gold case, this deep red dial manages to be bold yet sophisticated, drawing attention without being gaudy. Blue accented details like the tiny month and leap year indicators on the dial’s periphery, add a quirky pop of contrast, hinting at the watch’s technical side. Despite the plethora of information on display, day, date, month, moonphase and leap year, the dial remains remarkably legible and well balanced.

The real marvel however lies in the engineering, this is a perpetual calendar watch that stands only 8.1 mm thick, razor thin for an automatic sports watch with such complications. Inside beats Vacheron’s caliber 1120 QP/1, an ultra thin movement measuring a scant 4.05 mm in height. This movement is based on a legendary ébauche known for powering ultra thin Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet models in decades past, but Vacheron has refined and decorated it to the hilt. Despite the slim profile, it packs a full perpetual calendar mechanism that will correctly display the date, accounting for varying month lengths and leap years, all the way until the year 2100 without adjustment. That’s mechanical poetry and engineering in motion. Of course everything is finished to Vacheron Constantin’s exacting standards. Peer through the sapphire caseback and you’ll find the 22K gold rotor engraved with the Overseas compass rose, plus bridges adorned with côtes de Genève, perlage and expertly chamfered edges. Yes, this movement proudly bears the Geneva Seal as well, underscoring the fact that it’s not just thin, it’s beautiful. As one report noted, the level of high level finishing on the caliber transforms each component into a “miniature work of art”. It’s horological haute cuisine, served in a sleek sports watch case.

Aside from the complication itself, Vacheron made sure this Ultra Thin Overseas retains all the hallmarks of the collection. The case and bezel feature the familiar scalloped geometry. The watch comes on an integrated white gold bracelet whose half cross links are so finely finished that it could be a showpiece on its own. Naturally the quick change system is present here too, letting you swap the bracelet for the included straps without any tools. For the burgundy model Vacheron includes two additional rubber straps, one in a matching deep red for a sporty-coordinated look and one in white for a bold contrast. This means the watch can shapeshift from an all gold statement piece on bracelet, to a casual weekend watch on rubber, an impressive versatility for a perpetual calendar. With a water resistance of 50 m, it’s not quite a dive watch, but it’s more than sufficient to handle daily life and the occasional splash. The boutique only piece retailed around £90,000 at launch, a steep price yet in the context of haute horlogerie sports watches, not unreasonable. Consider that a certain other holy trinity brand’s steel perpetual calendar sports watch could cost several times that on the secondary market and suddenly Vacheron’s value proposition comes into focus. For those lucky enough to snag one, the Overseas Perpetual Ultra Thin Burgundy is a future classic. It exemplifies why Vacheron Constantin is celebrating 270 years in 2025, pushing boundaries of movement engineering while upholding the artistry and tradition that put Geneva watchmaking on the map. It may have debuted quietly, but this watch speaks volumes about Vacheron’s commitment to world-class watchmaking.

Exceptional Craftsmanship & Versatility: Why Vacheron Constantin Shines

What makes the Overseas and these 2025 models in particular so special and so underrated, is the combination of exceptional craftsmanship with true versatility. Vacheron Constantin has managed to build a sports watch that offers the rugged practicality we expect from the genre, while infusing it with the kind of hand finished excellence usually reserved for high dress watches. A few standout reasons the Overseas deserves more love:

• Finishing & the Geneva Seal: Every modern Overseas features superlative finishing, from the cases to the movements. The Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar we discussed both carry the Geneva Seal, meaning their movements were finished in Geneva to the highest standards. Look closely and you’ll find polished screw heads, beveled edges on every bridge and beautiful Geneva striping. Even parts you can’t easily see are finished, a testament to Vacheron’s craft. This is an area where the Overseas decidedly outclasses many of its peers. The level of detail is luxury of the highest order, something typically associated with Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne, yet here it is in a sporty Vacheron you can wear daily.
• High Complication Pedigree: The Overseas line isn’t just about time only or simple watches, it’s a canvas for some of Vacheron’s best complications. A perpetual calendar in an 8.1 mm case is one example, but the lineup also includes an Overseas Tourbillon and even an Overseas Ultra Thin Skeleton Perpetual, pieces that demonstrate serious watchmaking prowess. In 2025 Vacheron even unveiled an Overseas Grand Complication ,a one off masterpiece combining multiple complications to mark their anniversary. This heritage of complications means when you buy an Overseas, you’re buying into a family of watches that can be as simple or as complex as you desire, all with the same underlying quality.
• Integrated Bracelet & Straps: The integrated design of the case and bracelet isn’t just for looks, it’s integral to the Overseas’ appeal. The bracelet is exceptionally well made, with links shaped like half of Vacheron’s Maltese cross logo, polished and satin brushed in all the right places. The comfort is outstanding, the bracelet drapes on the wrist without any hair pulling or sharp edges and it tapers elegantly. With Vacheron’s quick change system you can release the bracelet with a click and attach a leather or rubber strap in seconds. It’s foolproof and encourages you to actually use those extra straps that come with the watch. Want a different vibe? Swap to a strap and it’s like having a new watch. Few high end pieces offer this level of plug and play versatility, most require a trip to the jeweller for a strap change, so Vacheron is really spoiling us here.
• Exceptional Dial and Case Work: Beyond movements, Vacheron puts tremendous effort into the externals. The Overseas dials often have rich, translucent lacquer finishes, the blue and the burgundy dials, for instance, or sunburst patterns that dance in the light. The applied markers and hands are crafted in gold and filled with luminous material where appropriate. The cases show a mix of brushed surfaces and polished recesses that highlight the complex geometry of the design. Little touches like the soft iron antimagnetic shielding in some models or the screw down crowns for water resistance add to the robustness without detracting from the refinement. In essence Vacheron hits that sweet spot, a sports watch that doesn’t feel spartan or industrial, but rather like a high art object that just happens to be tough enough for daily wear.

All these factors contribute to why the Overseas stands out and why those in the know regard it so highly. It’s the kind of watch that reveals more of its quality the closer you inspect it. Yet for all this the Overseas remained somewhat in the shadow of certain competitors in 2025, which is why we argue it’s criminally underrated. To really drive the point home, let’s compare the Overseas to the elephant in the room, Rolex.

Vacheron Constantin vs. Rolex: Design & Build Quality

It’s inevitable to compare the Vacheron Overseas with Rolex’s popular sports models, given Rolex’s dominance in the luxury sports watch conversation. Design wise and quality wise how do they stack up? Let’s take the classic Rolex Submariner or GMT-Master II as points of reference for design/build and the Daytona for a chronograph comparison:

• Finishing and Aesthetics: The Vacheron Overseas is finished to a standard that most Rolex sports models simply do not aim for. Rolex cases and bracelets are excellently made and finished by machine to very high tolerances, they are extremely consistent and robust. However they are not hand finished or decorated in the way the Overseas is. For example the Overseas Chronograph’s movement is adorned with Geneva stripes and perlage and visible through a sapphire caseback, whereas a Rolex Daytona has a closed caseback hiding a utilitarian finished though technically superb movement. On the outside the Overseas uses a mix of polished facets and brushed surfaces that catch light in a very refined way and it has that complex Maltese cross inspired bezel. By contrast a Submariner or GMT has a simpler case design polished sides, brushed top surfaces and a functional unidirectional bezel. There’s beauty in Rolex’s simplicity but side by side the Overseas exudes a level of intricacy and jewel like detail that the more tool ish Rolex lacks. Even the bracelets tell a story. the Overseas bracelet’s intricate link shape and polished bevels vs. Rolex’s Oyster bracelet, which while very comfortable and solid is more straightforward in form. In short,Vacheron goes the extra mile to give the Overseas an artisanal touch, it’s artful luxury sports design. Rolex on the other hand prioritises a form follows function ethos honed from decades of tool watch heritage.
• Materials: Both brands use high quality materials, 904L stainless steel, Rolex’s proprietary alloy vs. Vacheron’s polished steels and precious metals. One notable difference is in rotors and decorative elements. Vacheron’s use of 22K gold rotors in the Overseas. even in steel models is a luxurious touch. Rolex typically uses steel or tungsten rotors, they focus on durability and efficiency rather than ornate materials. Again this underscores philosophy, Vacheron leans into luxury craftsmanship, Rolex into pragmatic durability. Both approaches yield a solid, well built watch, but the feel in hand differs, the Overseas feels like a finely crafted piece of high horology, which it is, whereas a Submariner feels like an incredibly well engineered instrument, which it is. Neither is “better” in absolute terms, but the Overseas certainly feels more special in its finishing.
• Design Heritage: The Overseas design lineage traces back to Vacheron’s 1970s sport watches (and even the venerable Ref. 222), much like the Royal Oak and Nautilus from AP and Patek. It carries an air of vintage-inspired elegance within a modern package. Rolex designs (Sub, GMT, Daytona) are also vintage icons, but they are so ubiquitous and iteratively refined that we sometimes forget their mid 20th century origins. The Overseas gives you a taste of that classic Gerald Genta-era charm, though Genta didn’t design the Overseas, the spirit is similar, combined with contemporary size and tech. Notably the Overseas case has a thin, polished bevel around its edges and a tonneau like silhouette under the bezel, these nuances add visual interest. A Rolex case by comparison is more slab sided and purely round in its bezel footprint. The integrated bracelet of the Overseas versus the “attached” bracelet of a Submariner also changes the vibe, the former is a seamless continuation of the case, the latter intentionally looks like a separate strap fixed to lugs. Neither is inherently superior, but the integrated look is considered more “high design” in watch circles, since it’s a signature of the most famous luxury sports models. Vacheron nails that integration beautifully.

When it comes to design and build, the Overseas is like a meticulously tailored suit whereas a Rolex Sub is like an exceptionally well made tactical uniform. Both are durable and handsome, but the former has that extra finesse in the stitching. It’s this finesse that many casual observers might overlook, but once you notice it, it’s hard to go back.

Overseas vs. Rolex: Price & Exclusivity

Exclusivity is a double-edged sword when comparing Vacheron Constantin and Rolex. On one hand Rolex’s popularity means demand far outstrips supply for many models, creating a sense of exclusivity and significant waitlists/markups. On the other hand Rolex produces roughly a million watches per year, whereas Vacheron Constantin’s annual production is only a tiny fraction of that. By the numbers an Overseas is far more inherently rare than any steel Rolex. Walking around a major city you might spot several Submariners or GMTs in a day, chances are you won’t see an Overseas on someone’s wrist unless you’re at a watch enthusiast gathering. For collectors who value standing out from the crowd, the Overseas offers a kind of exclusivity that isn’t manufactured by waitlists, it’s simply uncommon because Vacheron doesn’t churn them out in huge volumes.

On the pricing front, there are a few angles to consider:

• Retail Price: Vacheron’s Overseas models generally have higher retail prices than comparable Rolex models. For instance, the steel Overseas Chronograph we highlighted retails around £78,000. A Rolex Daytona in steel is about £41k retail, significantly less. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar in gold is £106k, whereas Rolex’s most complicated watch, the Sky-Dweller annual calendar in gold is around £50k and their simpler Day-Date in gold is around £40k–£50k. So at retail, Vacheron is positioned at a higher tier in terms of complications and precious metals. You are paying for that high horology content and finishing and the prestige of the brand.
• Secondary Market & Value: Here’s the twist, despite higher retail prices, many Overseas models can be acquired near or even below retail in the secondary market, whereas popular Rolex sports models trade for multiples of their retail price. In 2025, a steel Rolex GMT-Master II or Daytona often commanded double its retail price on the gray market due to demand. Meanwhile an Overseas 4500V, three-hand date model, in steel with a blue dial hovered around its retail price, sometimes slightly above, sometimes slightly below, depending on market conditions. This means the premium for hype is much lower with Vacheron, a savvy collector could obtain an Overseas without the huge markup that has become the norm for certain Rolexes. As one collector noted, during the recent craze when Nautilus and Royal Oak were impossible to get, “there was little old Overseas just waiting to be bought at a reasonable price”. In other words, the Overseas has been something of a buyer’s market relative to its peers.
• Long-Term Value Perspective: Now value isn’t just about flipping watches for profit, it’s also about the satisfaction and longevity you get from the watch. Vacheron Constantin, being one of the oldest and most respected manufacturers, 270 years and counting, offers a sense of enduring prestige. The Overseas might not skyrocket in price overnight, which frankly is a good thing for collectors who actually want to own it, but it holds its value in a more subtle way, through timeless quality. Rolex of course has incredible brand value and generally strong resale value, but much of the recent price surge is a “new phenomenon” driven by hype and scarcity marketing. Historically you could get many Rolex models at a discount or without fuss and it’s only in the last 5 or so years that we’ve seen this hyper-exclusivity around the crown. With Vacheron the brand went through a period of being under appreciated. resale values in the past weren’t great, but that is slowly changing as collectors recognise the Overseas as an equal to the Nautilus and Royal Oak. The upside? You’re still getting in at a relatively fair price point. If and when the market fully “wakes up” to the Overseas, you could imagine values increasing, but even if they don’t, you’ve acquired a top tier timepiece for a cost that is arguably a bargain relative to what you’d pay for a hyped-up rival. There’s real value for money here in terms of horological content.
• Exclusivity of Ownership Experience: Another often overlooked point, exclusivity isn’t just about how many exist, but how they’re sold and who buys them. Vacheron has a smaller boutique network, often a more personalised sales process and typically an enthusiast buyer base. Rolex being a household name sells to a huge range of customers, from the casual luxury buyer to the hardcore collector. The vibe of owning a Vacheron is a bit different, it feels more like you’re part of a connoisseur club. It’s telling that Vacheron opened a Club 1755 in 2025, a collectors’ lounge concept and even partnered on Certified Pre-Owned programs, they are courting the serious enthusiast community. Rolex with all its merits doesn’t need to, their watches sell themselves to just about everyone. So as an Overseas owner, you might not get a wink of recognition from your average person, while a Rolex might. But you very likely will get a nod of respect from a fellow watch nerd who spots the Overseas, knowing you’ve chosen a path less traveled.

IThe Overseas in 2025 is that rare bird, a truly high-end luxury watch that hasn’t been overrun by speculators and flippers. It’s exclusive in the right ways, limited production, distinguished pedigree, without the artificial scarcity circus. For a collector or someone who simply wants to enjoy a great watch, that’s a very appealing scenario.

Overseas vs. Rolex: Movement Tech & Specifications

When comparing the technical side of Vacheron vs. Rolex, it’s a bit of an “apples vs. oranges” scenario in terms of focus. Rolex movements are renowned for their robustness, accuracy and ease of service; they are high-quality workhorses designed for daily wear and abuse. Vacheron’s movements, especially in the Overseas, strive to combine reliability with elegance, thinness and complication. Let’s break down a few points:

• Complications and Innovation: Perhaps the starkest difference is in the realm of high complications. Rolex famously does not produce perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, tourbillons or ultra-thin movements, those are outside of their wheelhouse (at least for now). The most complicated Rolex movements are found in the Sky-Dweller and the Yacht-Master II and they recently added an innovative anti-magnetic escapement in the new Milgauss. But Vacheron Constantin, as we’ve seen, regularly tackles perpetual calendars, tourbillons and even grand complications. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a great example, a complication Rolex has never attempted, executed in a way, ultra-thin, Geneva Seal finished that puts it at the pinnacle of modern movement engineering. The movement inside, Cal. 1120 QP/1, is descended from one of the most celebrated ultra-thin calibers in history. Running at 2.75 Hz and only 4.05 mm thick, it’s a marvel of compact design. By contrast Rolex calibers typically run at 4 Hz and are built with a focus on sturdiness over slimness. For example, the Rolex 4131 chrono movement in the latest Daytona is about 6.5 mm thick and has a 72-hour power reserve, with silicon escapement upgrades for anti-magnetism. It’s an excellent movement, but it’s not trying to break any size records or include a perpetual calendar module. So in pure complication terms, Vacheron offers more to the collector who loves the micro-mechanical magic.
• Finishing and Materials (Movement): As mentioned, Vacheron’s movements in the Overseas are hand-finished and often adorned with precious metal rotors. The Calibre 5200 in the Overseas Chronograph has a lovely column wheel capped by a Maltese-cross-shaped screw and every edge is chamfered. It’s as pretty as a chronograph movement gets in a sports watch. Rolex movements are usually not aesthetically finished to the same degree, they might have machine applied perlage in some areas, but you won’t find mirrored anglage or elaborate striping. They are built more for function, with great features like Parachrom hairsprings, Paraflex shock absorbers, etc., to improve performance. It’s telling that Rolex doesn’t display their movements, they know their typical buyer isn’t looking for that, whereas Vacheron openly displays its calibers because they’re a selling point. Additionally, Rolex uses a free-sprung balance with a full balance bridge in many models for toughness, while Vacheron’s calibers often have more traditional balance cocks, fine for daily wear, but a bit less bumper-car proof, though still very robust in practice. These choices reflect each brand’s priorities.
• Precision and Certification: Rolex guarantees an impressive ±2 seconds per day accuracy on all its modern watches. Vacheron doesn’t loudly advertise such a statistic for the Overseas, though the Geneva Seal does include chronometric performance tests within its criteria these days. In real ownership, both brands keep excellent time, Rolex might edge out in consistency across all pieces due to its industrial might, whereas Vacheron’s might vary a bit more piece to piece given the thinner movements and hand regulation. Again, not a big concern unless you’re a stickler for COSC numbers. Both will easily meet COSC standards in all likelihood.
• Durability: The Overseas is a true sports watch line, these watches are built tough, anti-magnetic protection, solid water resistance, screw-down crowns, etc.. But Rolex sports watches have a decades-long proven track record of being nearly indestructible daily beaters in the real world. A Submariner can last a lifetime of diving, desk-diving and occasional neglect with minimal issues. Vacheron, while durable, hasn’t been battle-tested in the same “mass” way simply due to fewer pieces out there. I have confidence in the Overseas’ build, especially with its 150 m water resistance and sturdy cases, but psychologically an owner might baby a Vacheron a bit more, it’s just human nature when something is more expensively finished. That said, seeing an Overseas on a rubber strap suggests you can and should actively wear these, they aren’t meant to be safe queens.

Comparing movements and tech, Rolex is the reliable tank, Vacheron is the finely tuned machine. The Overseas gives you bragging rights to more elaborate mechanics, whereas Rolex gives you the comfort of a no-fuss user experience. Depending on what you value, one or the other might appeal more. For the true horology enthusiast though, it’s hard not to appreciate what Vacheron brings to the table inside the Overseas, it’s a level of mechanical artistry that just isn’t Rolex’s aim.

The Overseas Lineup: More Than Just One Watch

Another reason the Overseas is capturing collectors’ attention, it’s not a one-trick pony, but a full lineup of models that cater to different tastes while sharing the same DNA. Briefly here are some notable members of the Overseas family beyond the two models we spotlighted:

• Overseas Self-Winding (41 mm, Ref. 4500V/4520V): The simplest version, just hours, minutes, seconds and date. Often seen with a gorgeous blue dial (as well as black or silver options). This is the purest expression of the Overseas design and the entry point to the line. It still has the interchangeable straps, 150 m water resistance and a Geneva Seal automatic movement (Cal. 5100) inside. Many consider the blue dial 4500V a future classic and it’s arguably a direct competitor to the Patek Nautilus 5711/6711 and AP Royal Oak 15500 in format.
• Overseas Dual Time (41 mm, Ref. 7900V): A traveler’s dream watch, it adds a dual time zone function with a practical day/night indicator and a pointer date. This model lets you track a second time zone via an additional central hand. It’s a bit of a sleeper in the lineup but offers fantastic utility for globetrotters, staying true to the Overseas “spirit of travel” theme. It runs on Cal. 5110 DT, derived from the same base movement but with the added complication.
• Overseas Chronograph (42.5 mm, Ref. 5500V/5520V): We’ve discussed this at length, the sporty complication with timing functionality. Notably, Vacheron has introduced new dial colors in recent years (we’ve seen blue, silver/white, brown, black and even a recent panda dial variant). It’s a direct competitor to the Rolex Daytona, AP Royal Oak Chrono, etc., but it stands out with its refined design and finishing. The latest iterations like Ref. 5520V have subtle improvements (display caseback and slight tweaks).
• Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (41.5 mm, Ref. 4300V): The star complicated model, offered in steel (initially with blue dial or as a skeleton) and now in precious metals (gold with skeleton or solid dials). It’s one of the thinnest perpetual calendars on the market and certainly one of the most attractive. There’s also a skeletonized variant that is absolutely breathtaking, imagine seeing all the gears and levers of the perpetual mechanism in an openworked dial. That one is a grail watch for many, sitting at the intersection of sportiness and high horology art.
• Overseas Ultra-Thin Two-Hand (2000V): Vacheron did make a limited-edition “Overseas Ultra-Thin” time-only model in 2016 (with a 2-hand display, no seconds) in pink gold, essentially a revival of the old 222 model in modern Overseas form. It was super elegant and thin, though very limited. It’s worth noting as it shows Vacheron’s willingness to play in the ultra-thin field in sports watches (much like AP’s RD#2 concept which became the Royal Oak Ultra-Thin Perpetual).
• Overseas Tourbillon (42.5 mm): Introduced a few years ago, the Overseas Tourbillon brings a rotating tourbillon cage shaped like a Maltese cross to the mix. Unusually, Vacheron even offered it in titanium for a sporty edge. It’s an impressive piece that demonstrates VC can do high complications in sports cases without breaking a sweat.
• Overseas World Time (43.5 mm, Ref. 7700V): Let’s not forget the world-time model, which displays 37 time zones and features a colorful world map dial. It’s a bit larger and doesn’t have the interchangeable strap system due to its unique lug structure, but it’s a world-timer with flair and is part of the Overseas collection as well. For the globetrotting collector, it’s a very cool piece (and quite exclusive, not many are seen out in the wild).

From chronographs to tourbillons, the Overseas collection covers a lot of ground. What unites them is that distinctive design language and Vacheron’s commitment to haute horlogerie finishing. This breadth is important: it means the Overseas isn’t just one hyped model with all eggs in one basket, it’s a platform for Vacheron’s watchmaking excellence. Collectors can pick the complication or style that suits them and still get the benefits of the core Overseas features. It also means Vacheron is serious about the Overseas, they’re investing in it, expanding it and betting on it as a pillar of the brand.

Collectors Are Waking Up to the Overseas

For a long time the Vacheron Overseas lived in the shadows of its famous siblings from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Nautilus and Royal Oak had the pop-culture status and raging demand, while the Overseas was sometimes overlooked even by seasoned collectors. But the tide is turning. In the past few years, as the craze for integrated-bracelet sports watches surged, enthusiasts started looking beyond the usual suspects, and the Overseas was right there, the “third musketeer” of the holy trinity’s luxury sports trilogy, waiting to be appreciated. As one longtime collector observed, the third-generation Overseas (launched in 2016) “finally produced a watch that competed with the Nautilus and Royal Oak that people actually wanted. But they didn’t want it that much… When I bought mine, I walked into the boutique and paid under retail for it.” That was the scenario a few years back. Today, in 2025 you’re far less likely to find an Overseas sitting in a display case, they do sell and certain hot versions might have waitlists. The secret is getting out. Collectors are realising that Vacheron Constantin Overseas models offer an intoxicating mix of prestige, quality and (relative) value.

On watch forums and at gatherings, you’ll hear sentiments like: “I didn’t buy my Overseas because people would recognise it. I wanted a holy trinity watch that really functions as a sports watch with flexibility. Under these circumstances, it’s the best one out there.” This encapsulates the appeal, you’re getting a watch that insiders respect immensely, even if it’s under-the-radar to the general public. In fact, some owners relish that under-the-radar aspect. There’s a certain pride in wearing something less obvious yet knowing its true worth. One could argue the Overseas is undervalued in every sense, financially and in terms of recognition (you’re not likely to get mobbed on Instagram for wrist shots, but the knowledgeable praise you’ll get is genuine). As collectors increasingly seek out long-term value and substance over hype, the Overseas is primed to keep gaining momentum. We’ve seen slight upticks in secondary market prices for specific models and a general rise in chatter about Vacheron in collecting circles.

However despite this rising interest, in 2025 the Overseas still hasn’t hit the stratospheric hype levels of some competitors, and that’s actually a wonderful thing. It means there’s still opportunity for enthusiasts to get one without jumping through outrageous hoops. It remains, in our opinion, underrated relative to its quality and prestige. Remember, this is Vacheron Constantin we’re talking about: the oldest continuously operating watch manufacture in the world, whose name is on some of the most significant watches in history. The Overseas carries that weight of tradition, yet it’s packaged as a modern, everyday-wearable watch. That is a recipe for a future icon. The savvy collectors who are “woke” to the Overseas now may well be seen as ahead of the curve in a decade’s time.

 

Thinking Beyond the Crown

2025 has been a year of incredible watches and sure, Rolex still dominates much of the conversation. But as we’ve explored, the most underrated watch of 2025 might just be the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Between the steel Overseas Chronograph that offers an upscale take on the everyday sports watch and the ultra-thin Overseas Perpetual Calendar that showcases horology at its finest, Vacheron has proven that it can go toe-to-toe with, and in many ways outshine, the usual suspects. These watches deliver long-term value not by skyrocketing in price, but by providing lasting satisfaction, enduring quality and a slice of genuine watchmaking heritage that you can enjoy on your wrist daily.

If you’re a collector or enthusiast feeling fatigued by hype and waitlists, consider thinking beyond the Rolex/Tudor/Patek bubble. There’s a whole world of top-tier craftsmanship in brands like Vacheron Constantin that offer something different, a blend of under-the-radar exclusivity and undeniable horological credibility. The Overseas is a watch you choose for you, not for the crowd. And in the long run, that’s the kind of purchase that tends to age well, both in your collection and on your wrist.

As the watch world slowly wakes up to the Overseas, those who got in early will be smiling. But it’s not too late to join them, the Overseas is still undervalued relative to its excellence and that’s perhaps the biggest endorsement we can give. Whether you’re after a versatile chronograph or a mind-blowing ultra-thin complication, Vacheron’s Overseas lineup in 2025 has you covered.