Luxury watches are more than just timekeepers, they are cultural icons, feats of engineering and increasingly, investment assets. From underwater explorations to moon landings, iconic watches like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster have woven themselves into our collective story. Their mechanical sophistication and craftsmanship command admiration, while secondary-market demand can deliver substantial financial returns. In fact, luxury watches have appreciated on average ~22.9% over the past five years. We explore the greatest models by region, Swiss, Japanese, American, French and German, detailing their specs, designs and retail vs. resale values to understand why collectors prize them.
Swiss Luxury Watches (Rolex, Patek, AP, Omega, etc.)
Switzerland reigns supreme in luxury watchmaking. Rolex leads with its iconic sports models. For example, the Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN (41mm steel case, Caliber 3235 automatic movement, 300m WR) is a diver’s tool and fashion statement. Its list price is about £9,700 in the UK, but high demand pushes resale prices near £12,000–£13,000. The Rolex Daytona chronograph (40mm, Cal. 4131 automatic) and GMT-Master II (40mm, two-tone ceramic bezel) also enjoy premium resale due to celebrity and collector popularity. Omega is famed for the Moonwatch. The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (42mm steel, Cal. 3861 manual chronograph, ~50m WR) retails ~£6,200 in the UK. Its NASA heritage (worn on Apollo missions) gives it immense cultural cachet. On the secondary market, a steel Hesalite model often trades near retail or slightly above. The Seamaster Diver 300M (42mm, Cal. 8800 automatic, 300m WR) is another Swiss classic, selling new for ~£4,000 and retaining ~80–90% of retail on resale due to its James Bond association. Patek Philippe creates some of the most sought-after pieces. The Nautilus ref. 5711/1A (40mm steel, Cal. 26‑330 S C auto, 120m WR) by Gerald Genta has become legendary. Retail was about $34,890 (≈£27,000) before discontinuation, but today average pre-owned prices exceed $90,000 (~£72,000), roughly 2.5× its original price. Likewise the Aquanaut and complicated Nautilus models command large premiums. Audemars Piguet also designed with Genta. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 15500ST (41mm steel, Cal. 4302 auto, 50m WR) has an octagonal bezel and tapisserie dial. Its retail is ~$27,800 (≈£21,700) and secondary around $35,900 (≈£28,000), reflecting ~30% premium. AP’s historic ultra-thin and complication models also enjoy collector demand. Other Swiss highlights include Cartier (e.g. Tank, Santos) and TAG Heuer (Carrera, Monaco), though these often trade at or slightly below retail. However, Cartier’s Santos and Tank watches have seen strong price gains recently as “luxury dress” models gain collector interest.
Japanese Luxury Watches (Seiko, Citizen, Grand Seiko)
Japan has delivered outstanding quality at a range of prices. Seiko is especially beloved. The entry-level Seiko 5 series (e.g. SNK809, ~37mm, 7S26 automatic) offers 30–50m WR for a few hundred pounds; they resell modestly, often below original price. For higher-end, Grand Seiko produces spring-drive and high-beat masterpieces. The Snowflake SBGA211 (41mm titanium, Cal. 9R65 Spring Drive, 100m WR) retails ~£6,000. Its precise 9R movement (with 72h power) and ceramic bezel have earned a cult following; resale is roughly at retail or slightly above for pristine models. Citizen pioneered quartz with the Eco-Drive and Casio popularised digital/G-Shock toughness (the MR-G line even costs over £2,000). These models are durable, but aside from premium lines, they are not typically bought for investment.
American Luxury Watches (Hamilton, Bulova, RGM)
American watchmaking’s heyday was pocket watch era, but today notable brands include Hamilton and Bulova (now Swiss/Japanese-owned). The Hamilton Khaki Field (38–42mm, Cal. H-10 auto) is a rugged classic (UK retail ~£600), holding value well for its price. The Art Deco Ventura (1957 electric watch) is iconic, though it uses quartz and is a niche collector’s piece. Bulova Accutron (Spaceview) is historic as the first electronic tuning fork watch; early models sell for £2–5k among vintage enthusiasts. Small American micro brands (e.g. RGM, Weiss) produce high-end mechanical watches in the USA. These are low-volume and collectible, but their market impact is limited compared to Swiss/Japanese giants.
French Luxury Watches (Cartier, Bell & Ross)
France’s top watch brand is Cartier. The Tank (rectangular case, various movements) and Santos (square case) date to early 20th century and are legendary for style. A Cartier Tank Solo (small model, quartz) sells ~£2,500 new; a steel Tank Louis (manual wind) might be ~£5,000. Resale for these tends to be 80–100% of retail, depending on metal and rarity. Another French brand is Bell & Ross, known for aviation-inspired designs (e.g. BR 01/03 instrument-style square watches). Their top models (BR-X1 chronograph, etc.) use Swiss movements and fetch around £5–10k retail, with modest resale.
German Luxury Watches (A. Lange & Söhne, NOMOS, Glashütte)
Germany’s finest comes from Glashütte. A. Lange & Söhne makes ultra-luxury pieces. The Lange 1 (38.5mm, manual Cal. L121.1, 30m WR) has a distinctive asymmetrical dial. Retail is ~$40k (£30k) for a new Lange 1 and resale remains very strong, often 90% of retail for pristine pieces due to limited supply and prestige. Other Lange models (Datograph chrono, Zeitwerk digital) command equally high prices. Glashütte Original and NOMOS also shine. A GO Senator (41mm, automatic) retails ~£5–10k, holding value well for a luxury German brand. The minimalist NOMOS Tangente (35–38mm, manual Cal. Alpha) is popular under £2k, but resale is minimal, more a design icon than an investment. Other German names like Sinn (tool watches) and Junghans (Max Bill series) are respected but less sought on secondary markets.
Market Comparison and Values Table
| Model | Movement | Case Size | Water Resistance | Approx. Retail (GBP) | Typical Resale (GBP) |
| Rolex Submariner 126610LN | Cal. 3235 auto | 41mm | 300m | ~£9,700 (steel) | ~£12,000 |
| Patek Nautilus 5711/1A | Cal. 26‑330 S C auto | 40mm | 120m | ~£27,000 (steel) | ~£73,000 |
| Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500ST | Cal. 4302 auto | 41mm | 50m | ~£21,700 (steel) | ~£28,000 |
| Omega Speedmaster Pro | Cal. 3861 manual | 42mm | 50m | ~£6,200 | ~£5,000 –6,000 |
| Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211 | Cal. 9R65 Spring Drive | 41mm | 100m | ~£6,000 (titanium) | ~£5,000 –6,000 |
| Cartier Tank Solo | Quartz (some auto) | ~34×27mm (rectangular) | 30m | ~£2,500 (steel) | ~£2,000 –2,300 |
| Hamilton Khaki Field | Cal. H-10 auto | 38–42mm | 100m | ~£600 | ~£400–500 |
(Values are approximate and vary with market. Sources: WatchCharts, dealer listings.)
A quick chart comparison of retail vs. secondary prices for select models highlights the premium on steel sports watches:
- Rolex Submariner (41mm): Retail ~£9.7k; resale ~£12k (≈+25%).
- Patek Nautilus (40mm): Retail ~£27k; resale ~£73k (≈+170%)
- AP Royal Oak (41mm): Retail ~£21.7k; resale ~£28k (≈+30%)
These spreads show how limited supply and collector demand (especially for Nautilus) drive values well above new prices.
Market Dynamics and Investment Factors
The luxury watch market is driven by scarcity, heritage and style. Historically, steel sport models from top brands (Rolex steel sports, Patek Nautilus/Aquanaut, AP Royal Oak) have seen the steepest gains, often far exceeding inflation or stock indices. For example Audemars Piguet prices jumped +64.8% over 5 years and Patek +33.6%. This is partly due to fixed production and rising collector demand. However some models have cooled, secondary prices peaked around 2021 and have since stabilised or slightly softened.
Hollywood and athletes fuel hype for certain models (think Paul Newman Daytona or “Hulk” Submariner). Fashion trends (like “quiet luxury”) have also boosted watches with distinctive design (Cartier Santos, JLC Reverso). The “Dual Return” theory suggests owners enjoy both wrist use and investment return.
Key drivers include limited editions, metal (steel often outperforms gold for popular models) and provenance. Authenticity and condition are crucial. full sets (box/papers) earn top prices. Bear in mind, transaction costs, insurance and liquidity matter. As Chrono24 notes, while average watch values have risen ~22.9% over 5 years, not every watch is a winner, market hype can fade. Nonetheless, the long term trend remains positive for top tier names.
FAQs
Q: What is the most valuable Rolex model?
A: The record-holding Rolex is the “Paul Newman” Daytona (Ref. 6239) once owned by actor Paul Newman. In 2017 it sold at auction for a world-record $17.75 million. Among modern production, models like the Daytona Rainbow or platinum Daytona also fetch multi-hundred-thousand pounds, but no current model matches that vintage price.
Q: Which luxury watches retain their value best?
A: Generally, the steel sports models from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet retain value best. Chrono24’s analysis shows AP (Royal Oak) prices soared +64.8% over 5 years, Patek +33.6% and Rolex +27.6%, far above many other brands. Cartier’s steel pieces (Santos, Tank) have also seen gains (+39.1%). In practice, limited-production or in-demand references (e.g. Rolex Submariner, GMT-Master II, Patek Nautilus) often trade at or above retail on the secondhand market.
Q: Are luxury watches a good investment?
A: Many experts agree that top-tier luxury watches can be good long-term investments, especially compared to general consumer goods. For example, the Chrono24 index showed a +22.85% overall gain for luxury watches in 5 years. That said, unlike stocks or gold, watches have higher transactional frictions and no guaranteed liquidity. Investors should focus on the “big three” brands and iconic steel models. As Balazs Ferenczi of Chrono24 notes, collectible models can command multiples of retail, offering a “double return”, aesthetic enjoyment plus financial appreciation
Q: What factors drive a watch’s resale value?
A: Key factors include brand prestige, model popularity, condition and rarity. The movement and materials matter too (in-house movements and precious metals often demand premiums). Complete documentation (box and papers) greatly increases value. Limited editions or watches with celebrity provenance tend to skyrocket (e.g. models worn in films or once-owned by famous individuals). Importantly, market demand fluctuates: global trends (e.g. “quiet luxury”) and collection trends (e.g. rising interest in Japanese or vintage pieces) can shift what sells best.
Q: Which luxury watches retain value best?
A: Luxury watches known to hold value include the Rolex Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master II, Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. These models often trade at or above retail after being sold. Other good retainers include Cartier’s steel Santos/Tank and Rolex’s Day-Date in precious metals (particularly with rare dials). Limited-edition models and those with historical significance (like historic Omega Speedmasters) also perform well. Chrono24 reports that even among top brands, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier and Omega saw strong value gains recently, indicating a broad strength among collectible watches. Sources: Authoritative market data and brand specifications were used to ensure accuracy of technical details and pricing trends.
Citations
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional NWW 2137
https://www.chronomaster.co.uk/watches/omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional/
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional NWW 2137
https://www.chronomaster.co.uk/watches/omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional/
Rolex Submariner Stainless Steel 126610 | Stock 69954 | SwissWatchExpo
Rolex Submariner Prices as of July 2025 | WatchCharts
https://watchcharts.com/watches/brand/rolex/submariner
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional NWW 2137
https://www.chronomaster.co.uk/watches/omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional/
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Stainless Steel 5711/1A Price as of July 2025 | WatchCharts
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 Stainless Steel 15500ST Price as of July 2025 | WatchCharts
Paul Newman’s ‘Paul Newman’ Rolex Daytona Sets World Record, Fetches $17.8 Million
Box & Papers
