Rolex Submariner: The quintessential diver’s watch

Originally engineered for professional divers, the Rolex Submariner is a masterclass in balancing rugged functionality with refined elegance. Featuring water resistance up to 300 metres (1,000 feet), a unidirectional rotatable bezel that allows precise timing of dives, and luminescent hour markers designed for optimal underwater visibility, the Submariner was built to excel in the most demanding environments. Its sleek, timeless design has transcended its diving roots to become one of the most coveted luxury watches worldwide, worn and revered by enthusiasts, collectors, and celebrities alike.

The Submariner offers an extensive variety of styles and configurations, catering to diverse tastes and preferences. From the classic no-date models prized for their minimalist aesthetic, to the practical date versions featuring the iconic Cyclops lens, and the luxurious two-tone or full gold editions, the collection presents something for every discerning wrist. Popular nicknames like the green “Hulk,” blue “Bluesy,” and black dial classics highlight the watch’s cultural impact and collectability.

The watch’s hallmark features include its robust 904L Oystersteel construction, renowned for exceptional corrosion resistance and polish, paired with the virtually scratchproof Cerachrom ceramic bezel. The bezel’s unidirectional rotation ensures safety during dives, preventing accidental extension of immersion time, while the dial is illuminated by Rolex’s patented Chromalight display, offering a blue glow that lasts longer than traditional luminescent materials.

A history of continuous innovation and excellence

The Rolex Submariner is a legendary timepiece that has evolved from humble tool-watch beginnings into an iconic symbol of luxury and prestige. First introduced in 1953, it was a continuation of Rolex’s pioneering success with waterproof watches, building on the revolutionary Oyster model launched in 1926.

Specifically designed for divers, the Submariner quickly gained popularity among professional underwater explorers, eventually becoming a favourite for watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide. Early models were water-resistant up to 100 metres, while modern iterations now reach depths of 300 metres, a testament to Rolex's relentless pursuit of innovation.

The Submariner’s technical achievements include its triple waterproof system, featuring a screw-down caseback, Triplock winding crown, and synthetic gaskets. This ensures unrivalled protection against water ingress, whether you are exploring ocean depths or enjoying everyday aquatic activities.

The bezel’s evolution is also noteworthy: Rolex replaced aluminium inserts with its proprietary Cerachrom ceramic, offering superior scratch resistance and lasting colour. The bezel’s unidirectional rotation enhances diver safety by preventing accidental lengthening of dive times.

Throughout its history, the Submariner has undergone numerous design evolutions. Early models lacked the Cyclops date window and crown guards, and were only available with black dials and bezels. Today’s collection features multiple colourways and styles, including the highly sought-after green “Hulk,” blue and black “Bluesy,” and the sleek all-black dial options.

Popular Rolex Submariner models

• Rolex Submariner 124060: Launched in 2020, this no-date model features the Calibre 3230 movement and a 41mm case, offering a larger and more refined alternative to its predecessor, the 114060.
• Rolex Submariner 126610 LN: Introduced in 2020, this date model comes with the advanced Calibre 3235 movement and a 41mm case, replacing the 116610 LN.
• Rolex Submariner 16610: Produced from 1989 to 2010, it was among the last with an aluminium bezel insert and housed the Calibre 3135.
• Rolex Submariner 126610 LV “Starbucks”: Released in 2020, replacing the “Hulk” 116610 LV, it features a black dial with a dark green Cerachrom bezel.
• Rolex Submariner 114060: The first no-date model with the newer Submariner case and Glidelock bracelet system, produced between 2012-2020.
• Rolex Submariner 116610 LN: The first Submariner with a Cerachrom bezel in stainless steel, produced from 2010 to 2020.
• Rolex Submariner 16613: The second two-tone steel and yellow gold Submariner, available with black or blue bezels.
• Rolex Submariner 116610 LV “Hulk”: Known for its striking green bezel and dial, produced between 2010-2020.
• Rolex Submariner 14060M: A transitional no-date model produced between 1998-2012, notable for its refined dial variations.
• Rolex Submariner 126613 LB “Bluesy”: A two-tone blue bezel and dial model introduced in 2020 with the Calibre 3235 movement.

Submariner and celebrity culture

The Rolex Submariner’s iconic status has attracted an array of famous fans. Actor Tom Hardy is frequently seen wearing the understated 116610 in steel with a black dial and bezel, while model Cara Delevingne favours the two-tone yellow-gold and steel 116613LN.

Mark Wahlberg, a well-known watch enthusiast, owns several Submariners, including the yellow-gold and blue 116618LB and the “Starbucks” 126610LV. Actor Robert Downey Jr. showcased his green-dial “Hulk” Submariner in a GQ video interview, highlighting the watch's cultural prestige.

Comedian and talk show host Ellen DeGeneres is known for her taste in masculine watches, often sporting the vintage Submariner 6538 “Big Crown,” famously worn by Sean Connery as James Bond.

Rolex Submariner in film and TV

The Submariner’s association with James Bond is legendary. Sean Connery’s Bond wore the 6538 “Big Crown” in the first four films of the franchise, cementing the watch’s image as a symbol of sophistication and adventure.

Other Bond actors such as George Lazenby, Roger Moore, and Timothy Dalton also sported Submariners in subsequent films, solidifying its place in cinematic history. Despite Omega becoming the official Bond watch brand today, many enthusiasts still consider the Submariner the quintessential Bond timepiece.

Beyond Bond, the Submariner has appeared in films like “Knight and Day,” “National Treasure,” and TV shows such as “24” and “The White Lotus.” Off-screen, Steve McQueen famously wore two no-date Submariners, gifting one to his stuntman Loren Janes, whose watch bears a heartfelt engraved message.