What to Expect & Luxury Watch Brands to Watch
Geneva Watch Days 2025 is set to take place from September 4th until the 7th, in the heart of Geneva, marking the sixth edition of this innovative luxury watch fair. What began in 2020 as a small informal gathering of watch brands has rapidly grown into a major fixture on the horological calendar. This year’s event will be the biggest yet, with a record number of 66 participating brands ranging from established luxury maisons to cutting-edge independents.
While Geneva Watch Days 2025 won’t feature every luxury marque in the market, icons like Cartier, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Panerai are not on the official exhibitor list, many participating brands share similar design codes, watchmaking philosophies, or market positioning.
For example, Bvlgari will be present at GWD, showcasing its celebrated Octo Finissimo series. At Kettle Club, we’ve previously stocked the Bvlgari 103297 Octo Finissimo Automatic 40mm, a model that embodies the same ultra-slim engineering and modern Italian design you can expect to see in Geneva.
Similarly while Patek Philippe won’t have an official stand, GWD attendees might explore high-complication and artisanal pieces from Ulysse Nardin or Ferdinand Berthoud—brands that also focus on intricate finishing and horological heritage. For clients seeking something in this realm, Kettle Club’s Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712R-001 offers that same balance of luxury sports styling and mechanical sophistication.
When it comes to bold, contemporary sports watches, brands like Girard-Perregaux will be present in Geneva, with their Laureato collections. We currently have the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Panda in stock, an excellent alternative for those inspired by GP’s mix of integrated bracelet design and Swiss precision.
Even though not all of Kettle Club’s core luxury names are part of Geneva Watch Days the event still offers a taste of the innovation, style and craftsmanship that we pride ourselves on sourcing for our clients year round. For watch collectors and luxury enthusiasts, Geneva Watch Days offers a uniquely relaxed, open and inclusive atmosphere to discover the latest timepieces, meet industry insiders and experience watchmaking innovation up close.
A New Kind of Luxury Watch Fair
Geneva Watch Days was launched in 2020 as a creative response to that year’s cancellation of Baselworld and Watches & Wonders. A coalition of brands including Breitling, Bvlgari, MB&F, De Bethune, Ulysse Nardin, Urwerk and others banded together to host their own decentralized showcase in Geneva. Backed by industry leaders like Jean-Christophe Babin (CEO of Bulgari and GWD President) and even supported by local government, GWD was envisioned as a smaller scale, flexible alternative to the traditional trade fair. Instead of one massive convention hall, it featured self managed events spread across the city, with brands using their boutiques, hotel suites and pop-up spaces to meet with press and clients. This format kept costs down and allowed for more intimate, meaningful interactions than the typical booth at a giant expo. Over the past five years, Geneva Watch Days has proven its staying power. In late 2024 Babin announced that GWD is now a permanent annual event, one that has gained “institutional recognition while preserving the relaxed, open and inclusive spirit that has become its hallmark”. The fair is structured as a non profit association with collective decision making, reflecting a joint vision among the participating brands. GWD has also introduced an “Incubator” program to broaden its inclusivity. A new “Access” category for small independent brands with limited budgets will debut in 2025 making it easier for emerging creators to take part. What started as a makeshift solution has matured into an internationally anticipated festival of watchmaking, one that complements and increasingly rivals the big name events like Watches & Wonders.
What to Expect at Geneva Watch Days 2025
This year’s Geneva Watch Days promises to deliver an exciting blend of new watch releases, events and experiences for attendees. Last year’s edition (2024) drew around 13,800 visitors, along with 600 media and 250 retailers from around the globe and even greater numbers are expected in 2025. Here are some key highlights and what to look forward to at GWD 2025:
- Record Participation: 66 brands will be exhibiting, the largest roster to date, up from just 8 founding brands in 2020. This encompasses industry giants, independent haute horlogerie labels and micro brand newcomers, all under the GWD umbrella. The unprecedented mix means visitors can experience the full spectrum of modern watchmaking in one event.
- Dozens of New Releases: Collectively, the brands are anticipated to unveil over 150 new luxury watch references during the show. These will span everything from high complications and artistic “métier d’art” creations to rugged diving watches, limited editions and even avant garde prototypes. In other words, whether you love tourbillons and perpetual calendars or the latest retro inspired sports watch, there will be something debuting to catch your interest.
- Decentralised “Festival” Format: Geneva Watch Days is known for its informal, citywide format. In 2025 the hub of activity will again be a public exhibition pavilion by Lake Geneva, conveniently near the iconic Jet d’Eau fountain, which serves as a central meeting point and show space open to the public. This year the pavilion even carries a breezy “By the sea, by the lake” theme, complete with decorative sails, deck chairs and other lakeside accents to create a laid back vibe. Around this pavilion, each brand hosts its own showcases in venues across Geneva’s city center. Attendees can stroll between brand boutiques, hotel suites and pop-ups to see novelties in an open, welcoming environment that celebrates horology in all its diversity. Compared to the formal booths of traditional fairs, GWD’s format feels more like a street festival for watch lovers, where you might chat one-on-one with a brand CEO or watchmaker over a coffee or cocktail. Brands praise this approach for facilitating meaningful dialogue with collectors and press in a relaxed setting.
- “Calibership”, A Watch Regulating Championship: A major new addition to GWD 2025 is the debut of Calibership, billed as the first-ever watch regulating championship. This unique competition will see 40 up-and-coming watchmakers compete to finely adjust mechanical movements under timed conditions. Coached by students from the Geneva Watchmaking School, participants will regulate Sellita movements, which will then be tested for accuracy by the COSC (Official Chronometer Testing Institute). The Calibership event highlights the craft of precision adjustment, a fundamental but often behind-the-scenes skill in watchmaking and shines a light on the next generation of technical talent. It’s essentially a timekeeping skills tournament, likely to be fascinating for anyone nerdy about luxury watch mechanics. The fact it’s happening at GWD underscores the show’s growing focus not just on commercial launches but also on education and horological excellence.
- “Culture Club” Programs: In addition to brand presentations, GWD 2025 will host an array of panels, workshops and meet-the-maker sessions under the banner of the “Culture Club”. These events are organised in partnership with institutions like the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the Horological Society of New York, Horopedia and others. Visitors can expect expert talks, Q&A sessions with watchmakers, hands on demonstrations and more, all designed to enrich your knowledge and appreciation of fine watchmaking. It’s a great opportunity to dive deeper into topics such as craftsmanship, heritage and innovation with leaders and educators in the field. There will even be live broadcasts from the show: new media partners (Radio Lac and Carac TV) are setting up a studio on-site to stream content and discussions, extending GWD’s reach to audiences beyond those in Geneva.
- Charity Auction for a Good Cause: Geneva Watch Days isn’t just about showcasing luxury watches, it’s also about supporting the industry’s future. For the third year a charity watch auction in collaboration with Phillips and auctioneer Aurel Bacs will be a highlight of the week. Proceeds go to the Pierre Amstutz Fund, which provides financial aid and scholarships to students pursuing watchmaking and related crafts such as studies at the Geneva Watchmaking School and the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux. In 2023 and 2024, these auctions raised over CHF 200,000 combined for the fund. Collectors can expect rare and unique pieces to be up for bidding, past auctions have featured unique prototypes and custom pieces donated by independent brands, often hammering for impressive sums. Not only is it exciting to see what special watches appear, but it’s all for a worthy cause, helping train the next generation of watchmakers. Jean-Christophe Babin has emphasised that initiatives like this are central to GWD’s mission of “preserving watchmaking expertise” and giving back to the community.
Geneva Watch Days 2025 is shaping up to be a vibrant, multi faceted celebration of horology. Expect a convivial mix of business and pleasure, brand unveilings and sales meetings on one hand, but also public festivities, educational forums and enthusiast gatherings on the other. It’s this “refreshingly informal” character that has made GWD a favorite stop on the luxury watch calendar. As Babin summed up the spirit of the event: “Open up! Dare! Innovate!”, a moment that’s spontaneous and relaxed, resonating with media, retailers and most importantly, with luxury watch lovers themselves.
Brands to Watch at GWD 2025
One of the most exciting aspects of Geneva Watch Days is the sheer breadth of brands that participate. The 2025 lineup truly runs the gamut from legendary watch houses to boutique indie startups. This means visitors can admire flagship models from historic Swiss manufacturers in one appointment, then discover a daring new micro-brand in the next. Here’s an overview of who’s exhibiting and which brands deserve special attention this year: Heavy Hitters and Heritage Names, Several top-tier luxury brands are anchoring GWD 2025. For instance, Breitling, Bvlgari, TAG Heuer, Ulysse Nardin and Zenith are all confirmed in the roster. These are significant because many of them also show at the much larger Watches & Wonders Geneva, yet they choose to double up with Geneva Watch Days, indicating how important this show has become. In fact Breitling has gone even further by opting out of some major fairs in favor of GWD alone, effectively putting all its chips on this event. We can likely expect these brands to unveil headline grabbing novelties. Breitling in particular is one to watch, after revitalising its classic lines in recent years (Navitimer, SuperOcean, etc.), Breitling may use GWD to introduce a new aviation themed chronograph or a special edition sports watch, knowing that all eyes in the watch world will be on Geneva that week. Bvlgari, renowned for its record breaking ultra thin designs, is anticipated to continue pushing the limits of slim horology, perhaps showing another evolution of the Octo Finissimo or a complicated jewel encrusted piece, building on its acclaimed 2024 releases. TAG Heuer, a staple for sports chronographs might present a limited Carrera or Monaco edition, tapping into its rich heritage in auto racing. Ulysse Nardin with its marine chronometer legacy and modern innovations in silicium technology could surprise us with something like a new high technology diver or an experimental Freak series watch. Even Zenith, a brand known for its high frequency chronographs, is on the exhibitor list, so we might see Zenith previewing the next Defy or Chronomaster model at GWD. All these big name brands appearing together at a relatively intimate event is a treat for attendees, as it offers a chance to see flagship luxury watches up close without the huge crowds of the mega shows.
Independent Innovators in the Spotlight: Geneva Watch Days has quickly become the stage for independent and boutique watchmakers and 2025 is no exception. Enthusiast favorite indie brands like MB&F, Urwerk, De Bethune, Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie. and Czapek & Cie will be exhibiting their latest creations. These names are synonymous with horological innovation and artistry. For example MB&F (Max Büsser & Friends) often uses GWD to launch imaginative mechanical art pieces, don’t be surprised if they unveil a new avant garde machine or a collaboration that has collectors buzzing. Urwerk, known for its radical time displays like the orbiting satellite hours, could debut another futuristic complication that redefines how we read time. De Bethune may bring its space age design language to a new high complication watch, their starry-sky dials and titanium innovations are always a draw. Greubel Forsey, master of ultra-high-end finishing, might show a complex multi-axis tourbillon or perhaps a more “accessible” line as they’ve hinted in recent years. And H. Moser & Cie., fresh off a year of well received models, is expected to present something building on its 2024 hits, possibly another ingenious twist on the classic watch, Moser is known for playful touches like invisible logos, Vantablack dials, or even mechanical smartwatches.
The presence of these independents is a major attraction: GWD allows enthusiasts to handle these rare pieces and chat with the brand founders or luxury watch makers directly, an experience you seldom get elsewhere. For many collectors, this is horological heaven, the chance to see and even try on cutting-edge creations that push artistry and engineering to new heights.
Newcomers and Micro Brands: In line with GWD’s mission to be inclusive and forward thinking, the 2025 show is bringing in numerous small and emerging brands, some of which are making their first appearance at an international event. Through the new Incubator “Access” category, brands that are highly creative but operate on a shoestring budget have a platform to shine. This year you’ll find names like Furlan Marri, Ming, Massena Lab, Kudoke, Bianchet and others on the exhibitor list. These companies may be young, but they’ve been making waves among enthusiasts. Furlan Marri has earned acclaim for its vintage inspired chronographs at accessible prices, even winning a GPHG award early on, their next release could very well be debuted here. Ming, the Malaysia based collective, has a cult following for its beautifully designed limited productions, collectors will be eager to see any new Ming references in Geneva. Massena Lab is known for collaborative limited editions (often reviving classic designs with a twist), so we might see Massena Lab tease a new partnership watch. There are also artisanal independents like Krayon or Konstantin Chaykin attending, Chaykin, for example, is famous for whimsical complications like the Joker watch with a “face” dial, it would be exciting if he unveils another creative piece at GWD. Even revived heritage or niche brands are present, e.g. Doxa, beloved for its orange dial dive watches, Louis Moinet, inventor of the chronograph, Favre-Leuba, Squale, another dive watch icon and Raketa, a historic Russian brand are on the list. The breadth of independent brands here truly reflects GWD’s ethos of celebrating diversity in watch making. It’s the kind of event where a veteran collector might discover a totally new atelier making ingenious timepieces in small numbers, the sort of discovery that fuels the passion of collecting. To give an idea of scale, the full A–Z exhibitor roster for 2025 includes everything from Akor to Zenith, with nearly every letter in between. You’ll find famous names alongside niche ateliers: Breitling, Bvlgari, MB&F, Urwerk, TAG Heuer, Ulysse Nardin and Zenith on one hand and Artisans de Genève, Beauregard, Egeiro, Genus, Maurice Lacroix, Perrelet, Trilobe, Tutima, etc. on the other. It’s an unprecedented ensemble under one “roof” (or rather, across a few city blocks!). This diversity is exactly what sets Geneva Watch Days apart from other fairs. As one media outlet put it, GWD brings together “the full spectrum of luxury watch making in all its diversity”, all in an open and welcoming environment. Notably, many of the returning brands plan to build on their 2024 successes. For example, we anticipate Bvlgari, Jacob & Co. and H. Moser & Cie. will unveil pieces that continue the themes of their highly acclaimed launches from last year. Bvlgari’s likely focus on ultra-thin complications has already been mentioned, their Octo Finissimo line broke multiple world records for thinness, so any follow-up in 2025 will be closely watched (collectors still buzz about the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT and Perpetual Calendar). Jacob & Co., on the other hand, is known for extravagant, theatrical showpieces, in 2024 Jacob debuted watches with high-frequency triple axis tourbillons and sparkling gem set designs, so expect more over the top innovation (perhaps another Astronomia variant or a sequel to the Bugatti engine inspired piece). Moser, as mentioned, will likely bring more of its signature minimalist-but-quirky creations, after introducing things like a cylindrical tourbillon and even a collaboration on a smartwatch mechanical hybrid last year, who knows what’s up their sleeve next? The trends of note among these brands seem to be ultra-thin engineering, high-frequency precision and artisanal dial craftsmanship, so keep an eye out for luxury watches that exemplify those directions. For mainstream luxury watch enthusiasts, several brands will cater to classic tastes with a modern twist. Frederique Constant (also exhibiting) might present an affordable complication or a new retro dress watch, staying true to their value proposition. Oris, a favorite among tool watch fans, could launch another variation of its Divers Sixty-Five or ProPilot line, perhaps with a locally inspired limited edition as they’ve done before. Maurice Lacroix and Louis Erard are other exhibitors that often bring interesting designs at accessible prices; they could have special editions on display appealing to those who like contemporary yet budget-friendly Swiss pieces. Speaking of geographic diversity, it’s worth noting there are exhibitors from outside Switzerland too, e.g. Emmanuel Bouchet from France, Konstantin Chaykin from Russia, Raketa originally Russian, Genus with a mix of Swiss/French roots, etc., underscoring that GWD isn’t limited strictly to Swiss made brands but rather to fine watchmaking worldwide.
Anticipating Trends and Timeless Favourites
What does Geneva Watch Days 2025 mean for luxury watch collectors, practically speaking? In a word: inspiration. The event offers a glimpse into the latest and greatest in horology and those trends often reverberate through the wider luxury watch market. Even if you’re not in Geneva to see these debuts in person, you might find that the styles and innovations unveiled at GWD spark new desires or collecting goals. This is where we at Kettle Club love to bridge the gap for enthusiasts. Our team is just as excited about GWD’s reveals as you are and we’re always watching for how we can help collectors get their hands on similar pieces or precursors to the new releases. For example, if Bvlgari showcases an ultra-thin complication that catches your eye, remember that the fascination with slim watches is hardly new, we’ve seen sustained demand for existing ultra-thin icons. In fact, Kettle Club has handled sought after Octo Finissimo models in the pre-owned market before (including limited editions), giving enthusiasts a chance to own a piece of Bvlgari’s record setting lineage without waiting on a boutique list. Likewise, when Breitling introduces a vintage inspired design at GWD (say, a reissue of a 1960s chronograph or a heritage diver), it often shines a spotlight back on the original models. We’ve observed that a new Super Ocean re-edition, for instance, can reignite interest in the actual vintage SuperOceans or similar era pieces. Fortunately, our curated collection frequently features iconic vintage and neo-vintage watches from the very eras inspiring today’s releases, from classic 1950s divers to 1970s racing chronographs. If a modern Breitling remakes a reference, there’s a good chance we can help you find the earlier version that started it all, complete with the charm of its time. Geneva Watch Days also emphasises independent and artisanal watchmaking and we know many collectors will be inspired by those creative indie pieces. Perhaps you fall in love with an MB&F or Urwerk concept watch shown at the fair, truly wearable art, but acquiring one new is out of reach or out of production. The good news is that the secondary market can occasionally reveal similar treasures. At Kettle Club while our core inventory focuses on established luxury brands, we do keep an eye out for special independent pieces for clients who seek them. Our network and experience mean we can often source rare watches on request. So if GWD fuels your desire for something off the beaten path, we’re here to assist in the hunt. Even for more entry level aficionados, the show’s trends can guide you toward your next luxury watch. Are blue dials making a comeback across brands? Is bronze still in for cases? Are smaller case sizes the talk of the fair? By following GWD, you get a sense of where design and technology are headed. By browsing our selection, you might discover an ideal luxury watch that aligns with those trends, often at a more accessible price than the brand new releases. For instance, if Ming’s new limited edition is all the rage but long sold out, you might find a comparable aesthetic in a piece from Grand Seiko or Omega. If multiple brands at GWD are doing green dials or full lume dials this year, chances are we have a model or two in stock that anticipated that trend. At Kettle Club our mission is to make the world’s finest watches accessible and enjoyable for collectors, whether they’re hot off the press from Geneva or enduring classics from years past. Geneva Watch Days 2025 is sure to ignite passion for a bevy of new models, but you don’t have to wait to satisfy that urge. We’ve got a curated selection of timepieces that capture the spirit of what’s on show, ready for you to explore right now. As always, every luxury watch we sell is authenticated and backed by our warranty so you can collect with confidence.
Embracing the GWD 2025 Spirit
Geneva Watch Days 2025 is poised to be an unmissable celebration of watchmaking, a long weekend where tradition meets innovation in a laid back Geneva summer setting. It’s remarkable how far this event has come, from a last minute 8 brand meetup to a 66 brand extravaganza that’s giving Switzerland’s biggest fairs a run for their money. For those lucky enough to attend, it will be a chance to handle groundbreaking watches and engage directly with the people behind them. For those following from afar, the flurry of announcements and live coverage will deliver plenty of eye candy and wish list material. Either way the impact of GWD is global. As Jean-Christophe Babin said, the goal is to resonate “above all, with those who matter most, the clients”. In that spirit we at Kettle Club can’t wait to see what Geneva Watch Days 2025 reveals and to help our fellow luxury watch enthusiasts share in the excitement. Whether it’s snagging your grail from our inventory or simply discussing the latest horological marvels, we’re here for the community that loves luxury watches as much as we do.
Get ready, the first week of September will bring a horological feast by Lake Geneva. Stay tuned for our follow up coverage once the event is underway and in the meantime, feel free to reach out to Kettle Club if a particular preview has sparked your interest. The world of watches is abuzz and Geneva Watch Days 2025 is at the center of it.
Citations
https://muckrack.com/katherine-arteche/articles
66 global brands to exhibit at 2025 Geneva Watch Days
https://menews247.com/66-global-brands-at-2025-geneva-watch-days/
ICYMI: Top Stories From ABTW & The Watch Industry | aBlogtoWatch
https://www.ablogtowatch.com/icymi-top-stories-from-abtw-the-watch-industry-4/
Geneva Watch Days 2025: All you need to know
https://www.europastar.com/time-business/1004114762-geneva-watch-days-2025-all-you-need-to-know.html
Business News: Watch Brands Join Forces For Geneva Watch Days – Hodinkee
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-brands-join-forces-for-geneva-watch-days
66 global brands to exhibit at 2025 Geneva Watch Days
https://menews247.com/66-global-brands-at-2025-geneva-watch-days/
Geneva Watch Days 2025 Expands in Scale and Scope | Barrington Watch Winders
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